tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23147245630403938832024-03-17T14:43:14.172-04:00Exotic and Vintage Motorcycle RepairMotorrad Werkes
Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-84818488934140080762015-12-25T13:48:00.000-05:002015-12-25T13:48:16.560-05:00BIG NEWS!At last! Sir Harry Ricardo's classic text is back in print. No longer does one have to pony up hundreds of dollars for a copy of this must have text (even though it's a bargain at those prices).<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-3784943247480624632015-05-05T16:36:00.002-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.947-05:00R1200GS Major ServiceThis 2006 R1200GS has 60 thousand miles on the clock and is in for a major service, input spline lube and general going-over. The bike is equipped with BMW's Servo-Assisted ABS which will also be serviced with new fluid since the fluid has never been changed. <br />
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So far, with the exception of the output shaft seal and a cracked swingarm boot, everything looks OK.<br />
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The clutch hub and input shaft splines are in good shape.<br />
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Oil leaking past the output shaft seal.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-9598562521231122692015-05-05T11:33:00.000-04:002015-05-05T11:35:32.132-04:001966 Honda CB160Isn't this the cheekiest thing you've seen in a while? It's a 1966 Honda CB160 that has been in the same family since new. The finish is completely original, as is almost everything else about the bike.<br />
At some point the front fender was changed for a chromed part from a Kawasaki and the mufflers were swapped for reasons unknown. The owner (the original owner's grandson) is currently searching for the correct fender and mufflers and intends to keep the bike so that he can pass it along.<br />
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It has been sitting in indoor storage since 1983 and so needs some attention to get it running and running well.<br />
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The owner had already installed a new battery but the bike wasn't running right. In this kind of situation (as in any other), being methodical pays off. So, in order, here is what was done to get this bike back to its intended mission of making its owner smile.<br />
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Engine:<br />
- Removed the plugs and made certain that the engine spins freely<br />
- Set intake and exhaust valve clearances<br />
- Perform compression test<br />
- Verify engine oil level <br />
Ignition System:<br />
- Verify battery voltage <br />
- Clean breaker points and set proper gap<br />
- Verify auto advance functions freely<br />
- Set ignition timing (statically, using a test light)<br />
- Clean spark plugs and set proper gap<br />
- Visually verify spark at the plugs<br />
Fuel System:<br />
- Drain all old fuel<br />
- Replace all rubber lines<br />
- Disassemble and clean/inspect carburetors<br />
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It was in the fuel system, specifically the carburetors, that age-related deterioration showed itself.<br />
The floats in these old Hondas were fabricated from brass sheet and soft-soldered together. The float's function is to control the inlet valve in the carburetor. When the fuel level in the carb bowl drops, the float also drops with it, thus opening the inlet valve and allowing fuel into the bowl. The float then rises and closes the inlet valve when the fuel level reaches the proper height. <br />
Here we can see the effects of surface corrosion on the floats. The brass is very thin originally and it doesn't take much for corrosion to cause perforation, allowing fuel to enter the float and negating its ability to actually float. The corroded areas pushed right through with the lightest touch of an X-acto knife. Needless to say, these parts were replaced with new, OEM parts (still available).<br />
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The carbs were cleaned and reassembled, the new floats installed and set to their proper height and the carbs were then reinstalled with new fuel lines.<br />
The bike started with no trouble and the idle speed and idle mixture were set once warmed up. The final step was to synchronize the throttles so that the slides lift at the same time.<br />
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Some other minor "repairs" had to be corrected, such as the brake light switch's attachment to the pedal (rusty wire won't do)...<br />
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...and the choke linkage (more rusty wire).<br />
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The air filter hardware was also replaced with the correct type. The little Honda runs like a champ and will no doubt continue to do so for quite a while longer.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-22778348373040155902015-05-03T23:28:00.001-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.614-05:00Ducati 749 15K ServiceThe air filters in the 749/999, by the nature of their design and that of the airbox, do not have a whole lot of surface area and tend to plug fairly quickly. The only option is frequent service which, although a bit of a hassle, isn't very costly since the factory air filters in these models are cleanable and reusable. Don't bother buying ANY aftermarket units for this model since you will only be buying what you already have, an oiled gauze filter element.<br />
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These filters had just about 15K miles of mixed road and trackday use.<br />
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This same bike also had some seriously excessive clearance on a couple of closer rockers. The factory specified clearance for a Testastretta is .002"-.010", with .002" being the preferred clearance.<br />
Here we see .014" and .016" clearances.<br />
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If you own a Ducati Superbike and ride it the way it was made to be ridden, then scheduled service is a necessity, not an option.Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-82757882706325757242015-04-10T22:36:00.001-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.615-05:00Monster S4R Major ServiceHere's a really fun combination from the rider's viewpoint, the Desmoquattro engine in a Monster chassis. From a service standpoint, it's not so much fun. While the Monster lacks bodywork to deal with, it more than makes up for that fact by having every electrical component tightly packed around the engine and inside the frame. In a Superbike chassis these items are readily accessible (and removable) once the fairings are removed. <br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-87409931224504664902015-04-09T09:52:00.001-04:002018-11-07T14:20:12.597-05:00ST3S Major ServiceHere's an ST3 that's in for its 15K service. The bike was recently bought by its current owner but it had no service records. It's a 2006 model so it has the quiet, long-lived wet clutch in place of the damnable, noisy dry unit that "Ducatisti" are so fond of hearing. Personally, I prefer that a bike not sound like it's self-destructing, but that's just me. It's also an "S" model so it gets the (OEM) Öhlins shock along with ABS. I think that the ST2 and 3 were the best bikes that Ducati ever built and can't fathom Ducati's decision to discontinue the line. There are a couple of other things about this particular bike that I also can't fathom which I will detail presently.<br />
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Stripping the bodywork to access the engine....<br />
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Apparently, putting a dab of anti-seize on the fairing fasteners just takes too much time for the average flat-rate wrench-monkey, so we end up with fairing screws rusted to the wellnut inserts.<br />
They either don't come out at all...<br />
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...or they tear the insert<br />
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Obviously the wellnuts will all be replaced and the fairing screws will be lubed to prevent this in the future.<br />
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Then I lifted the tank and found this. A fine example of "tuning" using the advice of internet "knowledge" and a healthy dose of mechanical incompetence.<br />
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If you're thinking that having the air filter loosely held in place with wire would allow dirty, unfiltered air to enter past the filter, you would be correct.<br />
The internet forum experts continue to have no idea as to the actual function of the airbox in a modern motorcycle. This isn't some old POS American car in which the air cleaner housing can be removed for "free horsepower". The airbox of a modern bike is an integral part of the bike's intake system. Its volume and rigidity are engineered to produce a resonance that boosts intake pressure at a certain RPM. Removing the lid destroys that, as does removing the snorkels (which actually convert the incoming air's velocity into pressure) or cutting holes into the lid. Unless you've got a degree in fluid dynamics and can understand airflow behavior in an IC engine, DON'T assume that you can successfully second-guess the engineers that designed your bike (I'll save you the suspense, you can't).<br />
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As has been known forever, K&N filters DO flow more air than stock paper filters. How do you think they do that? It's no secret that the more open mesh that allows more airflow also provides LESS FILTRATION. Again, in the case of a modern bike, the OEM filter is not a restriction. The paper filter has much more surface area than a gauze filter (that's why it's pleated, cut one out and flatten it, you'll see just how big it really is) and it actually stops the dirt particulates that turn into grinding compound in your engine.<br />
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This is what was inside one of the intake trumpets...<br />
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Ducati did not leave you any "free horsepower" to be discovered by butchering your airbox or installing a less efficient filter. You are MUCH more likely to find a bit more power by correcting the factory's cam-timing errors than anything else.<br />
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Here are the new airbox lid and intake snorkels, fresh from Italy. Notice the inside diameter of the intake snorkel compared to the size of the hole in the lid. If you think that the airbox will flow more air with the snorkels removed, you'd be wrong. Airflow does not like sharp edges. Notice the radius at the inlet side, this smoothly guides the incoming air into the even narrower throat, thus causing an increase in flow velocity, just like Mr. Bernoulli discovered it would.<br />
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It's at the outlet side of the snorkel that the air's velocity is converted into pressure, just as Mr. Venturi discovered. The outlet side is a gradual taper outward. This is known as a diffuser (not a de-fuser, that's somebody who works on the bomb-squad) and is designed to convert the velocity of the air in the venturi back into pressure with minimal energy loss.<br />
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Here is a comparison of the stock versus the K&N (crap) air filter elements. Notice how the paper air filter has many more pleats. This equals more surface area. Imagine pulling both filters out flat and you'll get an idea of just how much more. The stock air filter is not a restriction, it's surface area is calculated to provide sufficient air flow for the engine while maintaining better than adequate filtration. As I stated earlier, the K&N will flow more air, BUT will do so at the expense of filtration efficiency, and an otherwise stock engine has no need of more airflow.<br />
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Apparently, the valve clearances had never been serviced as they were ALL out of spec on both the openers and closers. Both exhaust valves had ZERO clearance on the openers. This is a dangerous condition since the exhaust valve depends upon full seat contact for not only sealing but more importantly, for heat transfer from the hot valve to the cylinder head where the coolant can carry the heat away.<br />
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Since any job that's worth doing is worth doing right, I always take the time to set the closer clearance to .001" to .002" on every Duc that comes into the shop for service. I also set the opener clearance to minimum end of the factory specification. This makes for a quiet valvetrain that does not depend upon the helper springs to close the valves at idle. Sometimes, in order to set the clearances with such precision the shims must be ground by hand to the proper size. On this job two closers and two openers had to be custom fit. I usually use a #2 cut file to get them close and hand lap to finish. Here is the setup for hand lapping the shims. It is a steel master flat surface plate with a thin coat of oil to hold the paper in place. The paper is lubricated with a couple drops of oil to create a slurry and it leaves a perfect finish on the face of the shim.<br />
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Here is the rear exhaust shim stack in place. Removing the cam bearing block and the opener rockers makes the job much easier than simply sliding the rockers to the side and doesn't take much more time.<br />
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With the valve clearances corrected and the new timing belts installed and correctly tensioned it's time to hook up the computer and test all electrical components relating to the engine (injectors, cooling fan, etc.), check for trouble codes, set the TPS and clear the service reminder.<br />
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With the engine warmed up the final operation is to change the engine oil and filter and check and clean the pickup screen. The pickup screen should never be neglected since it is the oil pump's first defense against particles that could damage it. This screen looked good but that cheap-o oil filter is a bad choice. OEM filters and Mobil-1 oil are the only items that I will use. The filter is pre-filled before installation. This greatly reduces the time that it takes the oil to reach the valvetrain after start up. As standard practice I safety the new filter with a hose clamp on all Ducati service.<br />
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Finally, the bike is detail washed, the bodywork is reinstalled and the bike is ready for another 15 thousand miles of trouble-free riding.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-69159208402062994232015-03-17T23:03:00.000-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.977-05:00BMW R1100R 100-Thousand Mile ServiceHere is an R100R that recently (4000 miles ago) had the clutch replaced at a local BMW dealership.<br />
Apparently they missed a few things while it was apart and those items will be detailed here.<br />
Keep in mind that until now the bike had always been serviced by the same dealership, at the factory recommended service intervals, which makes what I found all the more inexcusable.<br />
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This is the point to which the bike needs to be stripped to replace the clutch.<br />
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Starting from the final drive (which is the first component to be removed) we find that the outboard Paralever pivot bearing was seized which caused the inner race to destroy the pivot pin.<br />
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This is the outer race from the outboard side. Obviously both bearings and the outboard pivot will be replaced.<br />
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The final drive seal was also leaking and was replaced.<br />
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Moving up to the swingarm pivot we find that both swingarm pivot bearings are failed.<br />
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The above items are things that any competent mechanic should have checked and found during the course of the clutch replacement procedure.<br />
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Since the transmission is out of the bike and considering the mileage, the transmission was resealed and the clutch release bearing, spring and boot were replaced. BMW transmission seals do not rely on a shoulder to seat against, so they must be installed to their proper depth using a shouldered driver.<br />
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The input shaft, note the spline wear at 100K miles<br />
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Resealing the output shaft<br />
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All of the rubber parts will be replaced (right down to the battery strap) since they are subject to age-related deterioration. The bike is also getting a set of Wilber's shocks to replace the OEM dampers that are well past their best days.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-69412715649839369402015-02-20T18:38:00.002-05:002020-12-20T10:50:48.615-05:00Desmoquattro Valvetrain Condition at 20KHere we have the pinnacle of race engine cylinder head technology, circa 1955.<br />
Physically huge, large included valve angle (for a 4-valve), obsolescent desmo valve drive, ball-bearing supported cams, it's all there.<br />
Actually it's a cylinder head from a 2005 Ducati ST-4 with roughly 20 thousand on the clock (although that doesn't make the above statement any less true).<br />
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The valvetrain geometry of the Desmoquattro forces tremendous side loads on the valve stems during the opening sequence. As one might expect, this is a very tough environment for valve guides and stems. In a race engine that is serviced as often as it's ridden this isn't really an issue since race engines are expected to have a short lifespan. This is precisely why using this engine in a road bike isn't the best idea and using it in a touring application is patently absurd. Make no mistake, the Desmoquattro is a race engine, designed in the 80s to win WSBK races.<br />
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In the following photos and video you will see the effects of mileage upon this design. Keep in mind that although 20K isn't a lot of miles on a street engine, it is multiple lifetimes for a racebike-derived engine.<br />
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Testastretta engines are far more tolerant of street use precisely because their valvetrain geometry imposes far less side-loading on the stems due to their narrower included angle and much-improved rocker arm geometry.<br />
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It isn't just the valveguides that suffer. Here are the closer shafts and springs. Note how the closer springs have worn notches into the shafts. Also note the wear to the spring wire itself. This wear is exactly where the springs will fail. The notches in the shafts are also stress raisers and will result in cracking and failure of the shaft at some point.<br />
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In this video the amount of valve guide wear is evident.<br />
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Since this is an obsolete engine, there is no aftermarket support except for shims and exchange rocker arms to correct the notorious chrome flaking. This means that one either has valves custom made or you pony up the 150-200 dollars PER VALVE for OEM.<br />
Buyer beware. Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-27412448807441912242014-09-27T00:23:00.000-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.925-05:00Scrambler?.... Cafe Racer?........Yes, it's both, or maybe neither, but it is pretty cool. <br />
It started life as a 1976 R75/6 that now wears dual-plugged heads, BMW 336 performance cam, Dyna coils and electronic ignition, bobbed stock mufflers and many other custom touches. The bike's owner did the vast majority of the custom work including the paint. Motorrad Werkes handled the engine and chassis mechanical work for this one-of-a-kind project. The owner is justifiably proud of his creation and we thought the finished product was worth sharing.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-85823533265948160762014-08-22T00:34:00.001-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.615-05:00Multistradas and dirt...I'm not going to get into whether the MTS1200 is a real "ADV" bike or not. Each owner will use it as they see fit. I would like to address a couple of points that should be given some thought if you do use your bike off-road.<br />
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First are the timing belt covers. Ducati actually puts a foam filter in the front belt cover, apparently to prevent dirt ingress.<br />
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This is a sensible approach since dirt or other debris in the timing belts can never be considered a good thing. Unfortunately the effort is for nothing because the rear belt covers do not even meet.<br />
Take a look at the gap between the upper and lower halves of the rear belt cover. So much for that idea.<br />
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Next up is a lesson in how not to design an airbox. The air filter is a trapezoidal tube, open at each end. It is constructed of pleated paper and has rubber gasket ends. The left end sits up against the inside of the airbox and the right end is captured by the airbox snorkel. The seal at both ends depends solely upon the compression of the rubber seals. Here is where the problem arises, what do you think happens when that filter retainer is tightened down upon the PAPER filter. Well, what happens is that the entire filter compresses thereby allowing leakage past the end seals. Here are some photos of the "clean" side of the airbox.<br />
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In the second photo you will notice a few things. First is that there is no register or shoulder to positively locate the filter element. Second is the paths of dirt that have leaked past the filter seal. Third is the homemade "improvement" via a soldering iron. This is apparently a popular modification on internet forums, along with removing the external air supply to the airbox. While I've not flowbench tested a modified vs. stock MTS 1200 airbox, I'm pretty sure that that sharp-edged ragged hole has succeeded in nothing beyond destroying the airbox's rigidity and therefore its designed-in resonance. Removing the duct that channels cool outside air to the airbox certainly is not a way to increased airflow since the now cut-off snorkel is sharp-edged, and airflow does not like sharp edges. But who am I to argue with internet experts.<br />
I have compared a number of popular "free HP" airbox modifications for other bikes that are popular on the net. Rarely do they work as touted. One example is removing the rubber inlet snorkel from the airbox on the Aprilia Caponord. This results in a sizeable DECREASE in airflow due to the fact that the airflow is encountering a sharp-edged hole and becoming choked by turbulence. Many armchair horsepower junkies believe that airflow behaves intuitively, IT DOES NOT. Unless studying airflow is your hobby and you have pretty good grasp on fluid dynamics and the effects of Helmholtz resonance, you should probably rethink cutting, drilling, sawing or otherwise mutilating your airbox.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-61349644980856889372014-08-18T08:39:00.000-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.615-05:00DIY Special for SeptemberHere's a deal for all of you guys who like to change your own oil.<br />
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For the month of September, buy a Ducati OEM oil filter for $15.95 and get your service reminder reset for an additional $15.00!<br />
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Don't use an oil filter of inferior internal construction just to save a couple of bucks, this is false economy. Your premium machine deserves the filter that was designed for it specifically.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-85440477535247675932014-08-14T20:15:00.003-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.615-05:00Multistrada 1200 Major ServiceThis MTS1200 is in for its 30k service, belts, valve adjustment, etc. Once you excavate your way to the engine the service procedure is the same as for any Testastretta so I won't go into exhaustive detail regarding those items that are common to all 4V Ducatis. There are a few items that I will point out, some that are unique to the Multistrada.<br />
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First is the sheer number of fasteners that must be removed to facilitate servicing.<br />
Second is the cramped quarters while servicing the rear cylinder head. This area is much more accessible in the Superbike chassis.<br />
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On the other hand, the MTS chassis does offer much more room to work on the front cylinder thanks to the taller suspension and the high-mounted oil-cooler.<br />
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Here is some advice for those owners who like to change their own oil and filters. If you install the drainplug so tightly that this happens when removing it, then you're overtightening it. Buy a good torque wrench and use it. The same rule applies to the filter, if it takes an extension on the filter wrench (it did) and collapsing the filter body (also, yes) to loosen the filter, then you overtightened it.<br />
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If you're paranoid about losing an oil filter, then simply put an ordinary hose clamp on the filter body and orient it so that it prevents the filter from unscrewing. Do NOT use one of those aftermarket billet filter clamps. Their design does not allow for uniform clamping pressure around the filter body. They will actually crush the body AND be loose at the same time. Just use a hose clamp.<br />
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Now let's talk about an aftermarket item that actually does what it says it will do. Whether or not this is actually beneficial is another story. FatDuc O2 sensor signal manipulators intercept the oxygen sensors' signal and send a modified signal to the ECU, causing the bike to run richer than stock in the closed-loop portion of the mapping.<br />
As can be seen by looking at these plugs, the fueling is quite rich.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-36214159958806564202014-07-19T17:33:00.000-04:002020-12-20T10:50:48.614-05:00An expensive lessonEuropean (and especially Italian) motorcycles are much like a high-maintenance girlfriend, they don't tolerate neglect and if you're foolhardy enough to neglect her needs she WILL make you pay.<br />
In all seriousness, European motorcycles are very expensive to own and maintain, with Ducati and BMW heading the list. Many prospective and first-time Ducati owners are shocked to realize that they will be facing maintenance costs of 600-1200 dollars (depending upon exactly what is needed and who does the work) EVERY 6500-7500 miles. This maintenance simply can not be deferred as these bikes will not suffer neglect the way that some other bikes can. It is simply the cost of owning an exotic vehicle and something to keep in mind if you're contemplating the purchase of a bike like this.<br />
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Here we have a 2003 Ducati 999 Monoposto, looking very seductive in her bright yellow dress and carbon fibre jewelry. Hot, yes? It has 13,000 miles and is due for its second major service. Apparently the starter clutch started playing up and rather than getting it taken care of immediately, the owner put it off until the sprag failed completely. The extent of the damage is detailed below.<br />
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Here is the alternator cover ready to be removed.<br />
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Once the flywheel was removed, here is what was found.<br />
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After cleaning everything, the full extent of the damage becomes apparent as the gear and the outer race are also destroyed.<br />
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Here is the new starter gear, compare to the failed gear in the second photo. Yes, much of the metal that used to be that gear ended up in the oil.<br />
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Here is the new sprag and flange ready to be assembled to the flywheel.<br />
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Here I will show just how easy it is to screw things up if you aren't careful during assembly of the flywheel/sprag/gear assembly. In these photos only the bearing and spacer are shown for clarity.<br />
There is a thrust washer that goes between the crankshaft timing gear and the starter gear. The inner bearing collar MUST pass THROUGH the thrust washer when assembled, as shown in this photo.<br />
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When it is correctly assembled on the crankshaft, it will look like this.<br />
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If the thrust washer slips off during assembly, this is what will happen. Note that the washer is off-center and is trapped between the bearing collar and the crank gear. If the flywheel nut is tightened with this condition present the thrust washer WILL FRACTURE and also relieve the torque on the flywheel nut, causing much damage.<br />
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The correct way to reassemble the assembly is this, use some grease to hold the thrust washer in place and rotate the starter idler gear while sliding the assembly onto the crankshaft splines.<br />
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Speaking of splines, you can't just slap the flywheel onto the crank any old way. The oil hole in the flywheel must be aligned with the large groove in the crank.<br />
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The last step before closing up is to reinstall the alternator rotor. Contrary to what the manual says, the rotor bolts must be replaced. The updated bolts are class 10.9 whereas the old-style bolts are class 8.8. There is a considerable difference in strength. They also should be thoroughly degreased and Loctited and torqued to proper spec. I assemble the rotor to the flywheel with the flywheel installed because it's easier than doing it on the bench. The stock flywheel nut is only temporarily holding the flywheel. The final assembly is with Nichols double nuts, Loctited and torqued to 140 lb. ft.<br />
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I will not go into replacing the belts, etc in this post as that procedure has been detailed elsewhere in this blog.<br />
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One final note: <br />
There is a lot of talk on forums about shortening the sprag spring or replacing it with the spring from some seal or other, in order to prolong the life of the sprag. This is nothing less than butchery. If you can't afford the parts, maybe you shouldn't own a Ducati. If you take the bike down this far and don't do the job right, maybe you shouldn't own tools. <br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-2302297504761436752014-05-05T14:36:00.001-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.902-05:00The moment of truth....Today was dyno-run day.<br />
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Here are the results.<br />
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Almost 52 pound-feet, at 3500 RPM with 22 degrees total ignition advance (via restricted advance weight movement) and the cylinder head temp simply would not rise past 275 degrees Farenheit on the dyno. This is with small valves, small carbs, stock everything except the combustion chamber mods. The bike feels very similar to my K100RS 2V in the way it responds to throttle and is completely ping-free. Oh yeah, everything between the head gaskets has 117,000 miles on it.<br />
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I think that the combustion chamber modification has been a successful experiment. I will post fuel economy numbers once I get tired of playing and actually ride it responsibly.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-16333082826975675272014-04-13T16:16:00.001-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.882-05:00Airhead updateWell, it's back together and running. I am waiting on an appointment for some dyno time to get some hard and fast numbers and more precisely dial-in the ignition timing for MBT. In the meantime here is a short video clip. The bike is rolling at 3000RPM and the throttle is simply opened quickly, no bouncing, tugging or any other "help". It's completely stock from head gasket to head gasket, with stock intake and exhaust systems.<br />
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The bike has much-improved bottom-end and midrange and is utterly ping-free. I fully expect to also see a major improvement in fuel economy.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-52676298572147678832014-03-19T16:12:00.000-04:002018-11-07T14:19:15.968-05:00At the flowbenchThe chambers, seats and finally the ports are finished. What follows are some photos and video that may be interesting to some of you.<br />
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Here is a head set up to measure airflow through the intake port.<br />
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For my purposes there is no need to have the entire intake tract set up with the head, but we do need to make sure that the air enters the intake port in a smooth stream that is repeatable from head to head. Some guys will use a clay bellmouth on the intake stub but I doubt that I could sculpt a perfectly matching bellmouth on two heads so I simply machined one from nylon. It snaps right on and I put a dab of clay on either side to make sure that it stays put.<br />
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Here are some photos of airflow visualization using smoke. The way the bellmouth turns the airflow can be plainly seen.<br />
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I have been experimenting with wet flow visualization, in the following videos you can see that at valve lifts of .100", .200" and .300" the new combustion chamber contours act as very effective half-diffusers and keep the airflow attached to the head around the entire periphery of the valve head while also enhancing intake flow swirl. As we know, a properly designed diffuser converts the flow's velocity back into pressure with minimal flow loss. The flow in the original configuration was mostly straight across the top side of the valve in two very strong streams that tended to travel straight across the chamber with no swirl. I am much more concerned with flow velocity at the lifts between closed and full-open than I am about flow numbers at full-lift. Think about this, with a cam that has a symmetrical profile, the valve will see every stage of lift twice (once on opening and once on closing) while it sees full-lift at one point and then only for an instant. This is why it is not well to get hung up on obtaining maximum flow numbers at full-lift. Remember, the flowbench is an abstraction, as no piston-engine sees prolonged steady-state airflow at full-lift. The flowbench is best employed as a comparative tool. The fluid that is used for visualization is much heavier than gasoline and so tends puddle a bit but the airflow visualization is accurate and there is no explosion hazard (life is stressful enough).<br />
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There is one other item to take care of before reassembly and dyno-tuning, that is the crankcase breather system. The engine's crankcase volume is fairly small and that, combined with the fact that it fluctuates by an amount equal to the engine's displacement twice every revolution, tends to push a considerable amount of oil out of the crankcase breather. While it is common knowledge that subjecting the crankcase to a vacuum is beneficial, the way BMW chose causes more grief than it's worth. Venting the crankcase to the airbox and using intake vacuum to evacuate the crankcase results in the engine ingesting a not insignificant amount of oil. As we all know, ANY oil ingestion is highly detrimental as it dilutes the incoming fuel-air mixture, helps set the stage for detonation and is the primary cause of combustion chamber coking that airheads are famous for. Pull the intake elbows from any large-bore airhead and you will find this.<br />
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That is engine oil dripping from the crankcase breather pipe (which itself is quite an obstruction to airflow). I am not an advocate of removing the airbox (since the intake length is beneficial to this engine), but this crankcase breather system (along with the pulse-air exhaust injection system) is going to go. I will use a catch-tank plumbed in series with an electric vacuum pump. This should keep a negative pressure(vacuum) in the crankcase regardless of the piston position, give the oil control rings an easier life and maybe free up some power, but most of all, NO MORE OIL IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-83352803396711140402014-03-05T18:29:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.987-05:00Volume checkThe last part of the combustion chamber modification is to measure and equalize the volumes. The target volume was 80cc which will yield a compression ratio of 10.0:1. The right cylinder head measured at 79.9cc while the left head came in at 78cc and so needed some adjustment to be equal to the right head.<br />
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That's it for the combustion chamber modifications. Next will be the port work, which I will detail here. Here are the finished chambers.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-34895456828311535542014-02-28T19:09:00.002-05:002018-11-07T14:20:51.348-05:00KTM 950 Starter Clutch (sprag) Failure When all you get from the starter is a whizzing sound, this is why. All of the metal that used to be part of the gear is now circulating throughout the engine in sizes ranging from dust to "Oh No".<br />
If your 950 starter starts acting up, don't put off getting it repaired or it WILL get much more expensive.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-22820584952458502302014-02-28T17:55:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.892-05:00New guides and someplace to sitInstalling the valve guides:<br />
Here is the shop-made driver that drives on the top shoulder of the guide, it is piloted and counterbored so as to miss the sharp-edged, tapered portion at the top of the guide.<br />
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The guides were reamed and honed to proper size and then the valve seat counterbores were machined.<br />
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The seats were machined from C63000 bronze. This material is a superb heat conductor, has a similar expansion rate to the aluminum heads and is hard enough for unleaded use. They are machined to a .007" interference fit in the heads and radiused (.062") so as not to broach any material when installed.<br />
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The heads are heated to 400 degrees F and the seats are frozen before being driven into place.<br />
Here is a photo of the shop-made driver, note the o-ring to hold the seat in place on the driver.<br />
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Once the seats are installed they are contoured to match the combustion chamber shape.<br />
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Then the actual seating surfaces are cut (as well as a 60 degree back-cut and 30 degree top-cut) and zero seat runout is verified using a shop-made runout gauge.<br />
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Here are a couple photos of the runout gauge and a pilot.<br />
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Next step is to match the combustion chambers for volume (cc'ing) and then many fun-filled hours at the flowbench working on the intake and exhaust ports.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-26721010722477717772014-02-02T22:38:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.915-05:00Hemi no moreBoth chambers are roughly mirror images of each other. Once I've machined new seats they will be installed along with new valve guides. The chambers will be exactly matched for contour and volume after the valves are installed. The intake valves will remain at their stock size of 42mm but the exhaust valves will go from the stock size of 40mm down to 38mm (more on this later).<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-47827002979858439192014-01-30T19:56:00.002-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.958-05:00Airhead UpdateThe valve seats are removed and the combustion chambers are welded.<br />
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The deck surface is trued and the squish area contour are done after fixturing the head to the lathe faceplate.<br />
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Here you can see that the deck is now below the actual combustion chamber surface. When installed with a stock head gasket the squish area will be equal to the piston deck height, which is 1 milimeter below the cylinder deck surface.<br />
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Here is a diagram describing the standard versus the new configuration.<br />
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For reference, here is a photo of the original, recessed chamber.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-45248747962138111812013-12-04T13:56:00.003-05:002018-11-07T14:21:29.892-05:00T100R glamour shotsA few people have asked to see the engine in the bike so here are some photos. The instruments are out being restored and upon their return I will also be installing the English-market low handlebars.<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-10520450733442182372013-12-03T10:28:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.863-05:00Airhead alterationsThe usual route to "performance" with BMW's airhead engines is the typical American hot-rodder's approach, big valves, big ports, big compression, big cam, dual plugs, etc. Bigger valves can flow more air, but, combined with bigger ports this increase in flow generally comes at the cost of velocity.<br />
Intake charge velocity is a prime contributor to combustion chamber turbulence and given the volume of an airhead's featureless, hemi combustion chamber, anything that can help to stir things up should be preserved or enhanced. While those big ports and valves might flow some impressive numbers on the flowbench (which itself is an abstraction as no engine experiences steady-state flow), those big numbers generally will only provide an improvement at higher RPM, if at all.<br />
There are those that assume that since the larger airhead engines
are oversquare, they must be designed to operate at high RPM. Even if
this were true, who would want a street-ridden engine that only makes
power while you're wringing its neck?<br />
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Let's briefly take a look at the BMW opposed twin and why it is not suited to high RPM operation.<br />
- Heavy valvetrain? Check.<br />
- Foot-long pushrods? Check. Ever heard of Leonhard Euler?<br />
- Crank supported only at the ends? Check. Yes, it will flex at high RPM.<br />
- Poor crankcase rigidity? Check. The crankcases will flex at high RPM. Even though the engine has a 180-degree crank and the cylinders are opposed at 180-degrees, the engine is effectively a 360-degree twin. Both pistons reach TDC at the same time and they reach BDC at the same time, just like a British twin. And just like a British twin, the crankcase volume changes by an amount equal to the engine's displacement every time the crank reaches BDC. Udo Gietl discovered how much the cases will flex while building the Superbike championship engines to survive sustained high-RPM operation.<br />
- Large, slow-burning hemi chambers? Check. <br />
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The last item on the list is what I intend to address. The accepted orthodoxy is to simply add a second spark plug opposite the original, back the timing off about 2-4 degrees and call it done.<br />
This is a half-measure at best. I think a better way would be to redesign the combustion chamber to gain turbulence which will accomplish a faster, more complete burn of the intake charge than can be had by simply lighting the original, lazy mixture at both ends. Unfortunately there has been a lack of cylinder head development for these engines, but there have been many advances (both factory and aftermarket) in cylinder heads for the airhead's closest cousin, the American V-twin. Yes, I said it. Be intellectually honest and realize that, except for the cylinder angle, the engines are very similar.<br />
The knowledgeable V-twin tuners long ago abandoned the dual-plug, giant valves, giant ports, giant cams dogma.<br />
Look at the chambers of any performance V-twin head, you'll look for a long time to find an open, hemispherical chamber.<br />
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To that end, here is the modified chamber that I propose. While it may appear simple, I assure you that many hours went into coming up with this form. The heads will be welded and reshaped to duplicate this pattern.<br />
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The ultimate goal is an engine with improved performance across its entire RPM range that will run cooler, with much less ignition advance and be ping-free on pump gas.<br />
To those who would say "Yeah, V-twins make a ton of torque but I want horsepower" I say, ponder this: Horsepower does not exist and can not be directly measured, it is the sum of an equation. That equation is TORQUE x RPM, divided by a constant, = horsepower. Torque is an actual force that exists and can be measured, horsepower is a concept that is expressed as the sum of an equation.<br />
There are two ways to make that sum larger, increase RPM (ill-suited to an airhead) or increase torque output (the goal).<br />
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<br />Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-37541203568358923372013-11-25T23:19:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:19:15.936-05:00Airhead top end rebuildIt's an '88 R100RS. Problems are soggy performance and exhaust clearances tightening up very quickly.<br />
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Here is what the exhaust valves look like at 117 thousand miles.<br />
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I will be posting the entire rebuild along with some performance rework of the heads.Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314724563040393883.post-35085164487899838282013-11-10T00:46:00.000-05:002018-11-07T14:21:29.869-05:00T100R finishedIt is ready to go back into the frame and after break-in will be returned to the owner. <br />
I want to take this opportunity to thank Mitch Klempf and Chris Stubbs at Klempf's British Parts in Minnesota.<br />
These guys unquestionably are the benchmark of customer service and knowledge when it comes to parts for vintage British motorcycles, they really know their business and are an absolute pleasure to deal with.<br />
They can be reached at: http://www.klempfsbritishparts.com/<br />
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Here are a couple photos.<br />
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And here are a few photos of what I found when tearing this engine down in preparation for the rebuild.<br />
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Incorrect clutch basket thrust washer<br />
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Worn valve guides<br />
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T100C pistons<br />
The bigger Daytona valves made their own clearance.<br />
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The seller claimed that this engine had never been apart, if I had a dollar for every time I heard that one....<br />
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Deweyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05924288339530598494noreply@blogger.com1